Friday 28 December 2012

Charming & Colonial Cartagena

We arrived in Cartagena after a short five hour bus ride from Taganga. Upon arrival we checked into Mamallena Hostel and went about trying to find a boat to Panama in the next week. Fortunately there was one leaving on the Thursday although we were warned the captain was a tad strange, thus giving us four full days to explore the city whilst still making it to Panama in time for Christmas day. After a night out on Saturday at a club with a guest DJ whose music left a lot to be desired we spent Sunday walking around the old town and getting a feel for the city.

Entrance to the old town
Working Hard

Ambling Around
On Monday we decided that after so long on the road we needed to head to the Mud Volcano outside the city to clean up our skin and have a nice detoxification. The feeling in the volcano was rather strange, probably not helped by the fact that a man was giving me a massage although I really didn't have much choice in the matter. Furthermore once we had finished we headed down to the lake to wash ourselves and we were immediately joined in the water by ladies who wiped us down and forced us to strip completely naked; fortunately the water was murky however it was still rather unsettling.

Surely the world's smallest volcano


Mid Massage

Letting the mud work its magic...unfortunately it didn't help Alex
Tuesday saw us head over to Playa Blanca which is a 20km boat ride from the old town. The day was spent lounging around in a cloudless sky and we wished we could have stayed overnight however we needed to head back to the city for immigration formalities the following day.

The Beach
On Wednesday we hired bikes and rode around the old town which was a rather pleasant way to spend the afternoon.



I want to ride my bicycle


What a cool dude!!

Another Sunset

After concluding with another sunset we headed over to Media Luna for their famous Wednesday night party; in hindsight not the greatest idea for the boat the following day. Cartagena was undoubtedly one of the most beautiful and interesting cities that I have ever visited and was the ideal place to end my time in South America. We are currently in Bocas Del Toro after a quick stop in Panama City, which along with the sailing I'll post about in the next few days.

Wednesday 19 December 2012

Colombia's Caribbean Coast: Taganga & Tayrona

After another 15 hour bus ride we arrived in Taganga with no real clue as to where we would stay; unfortunately one of the locals picked up on this and offered to take us to a hostel. We both believed that he owned a hostel and willingly went along, little were we to know that in fact he was just looking to sell us a couple of the local specialities and upon failing that he informed us that a tip for his services was required...we won't be falling for that one again.

We ended up picking our hostel due to the views that it offered over the bay below, however upon discovering that no other guests were at the hostel we went upstairs to enquire as to where people went out at night. Continuing our good luck we were informed that where we were staying was in fact the biggest party in Taganga; so much for a few days of rest and relaxation.


Taganga

Deciding that we wouldn't be getting much sleep we headed upstairs that evening and ran into a couple of Aussies who were heading out on a fishing trip the following day, so we decided that we would go along and do a bit of snorkeling and hopefully catch some fresh fish for our lunch. This of course did not happen, after getting on the boat to find two rods and two hand reels for the seven of us we cruised around aimlessly with the guides telling us that it was just an unlucky day (as I'm sure most of them are) and eventually we were forced to pull over so that the guides could buy our lunch...not quite what we were expecting.


The Guides

The Group

After lunch we headed out for one last attempt at catching fish; of which we managed to catch two between all of us; of course I managed to get the largest one!! The day was enjoyable nonetheless however I hope that Central America will bring more successful days out on the water.

Catch of the day!!
The following day we decided just to chill out around the town and visit a nicer beach about a 20 minute walk away; the beach wasn't that nice that it's worth including any photos. We headed down to Taganga Beach for the sunset which was pretty impressive however another early night ensued due to the fact that we were heading to Tayrona National Park the following day.

Stunning Sunset
We had heard many good things about Tayrona however a lack of time meant that we were unable to spend the night there and thus got to look forward to a day filled with walking and hopefully lots of sunshine. Upon arrival at the park Alex discovered that for his student discount to be valid he needed to have a copy of his passport as well; something that he wouldn't let go of for the next 8 hours. We knew there was going to be a lot of walking however I also managed to get us lost for close to an hour that further added to Alex's frustrations. Once we finally made it to the beaches they were simply amazing and it made us rue the decision not to overnight in a hammock...oh well there is always next time!

First Impressions

Not A Bad View


Cabo San Juan Beach
The Postcard Shot
The trip to Tayrona brought our time in Taganga to an end and as I mentioned in my last post we are currently in Cartagena. We are heading to Panama tomorrow so I will try and sneak one more post in before we leave...

Sunday 16 December 2012

A Bit About Bogota And Some Medellin Moments

I arrived safely in Bogota on Tuesday morning after a rather uncomfortable bus ride, mainly due to the fact that the person next to me couldn't actually fit into her seat and thus spent the journey with a significant portion of her right side crushing my left leg. I got to the hostel just after 6 a.m. and fortunately was able to check in straight away and catch up on some sleep. Alex arrived around midday and after a spot of lunch we spent the afternoon chilling out at the hostel, catching up on what has been happening on both sides of the world and conversing with fellow hostel guests.

During these conversations we happened to meet Ben, a Kiwi travelling the world and writing a book about his experiences. One of these experiences had occurred just the day before when he flew into Bogota from  Fort Lauderdale, Miami. Arriving at the check-in desk and upon presenting his passport the lady behind the counter refused to believe that his passport was genuine and rather preferred to think that it was from a country that in fact does not exist. The lady then called over her manager who also had never heard of this obscure country called 'New Zealand' so up the chain of command the passport went to the supervisor who also did not believe that Ben had a genuine passport or country. After a quick call to the Australian Embassy to clarify that New Zealand was in fact a legitimate country Ben made his way safely to South America, although one must fear that if the United States has not heard of New Zealand it may not be the last he hears of it!!

After a good night out on Tuesday we decided that on Wednesday we would try to head up the cable car to get a good overview of the city; however after some procrastination the weather turned for the worse so instead we walked around the city.


Bogota's Main Plaza
Whilst the sightseeing was interesting nothing quite compared to the two Australians that we met later that afternoon. Nick and Jasper had only just arrived in Bogota and both spoke no Spanish between them which resulted in a bit of confusion when they went to get some money out of the ATM. Nick went first and managed to pull out 10, $20,000 peso bills after which Jasper decided he would follow suit. Unfortunately for Jasper his notes came out in 4; 50 mil (thousand) pesos notes. At this stage the lack of Spanish took hold with Jasper rushing back to the hostel believing he had withdrawn 200 million pesos; a quick calculation led him to believe that he had pulled approximately $83,000 out of the ATM. After we managed to tell him that mil in fact meant thousand there was a huge sigh of relief on his face, however one has to wonder firstly how he could believe that he was able to take $83,000 from the ATM and secondly how one note could be worth $21,000...no wonder Australians have a certain stereotype around the world.

On Thursday we finally managed to head up the cable car to get a good overview of the city and then spent the afternoon relaxing in the hostel before we headed off into town for a game of Tejo (Colombia's national "sport"); where the aim of the game is to throw a 3kg metal disc at a square of clay 10m away. The real intricacies of the game lie in the cost of entry (a case of beer) and the small triangles of gunpowder placed in the middle of the clay. Fortunately most of us managed to get the hang of it rather quickly, except for Mary, an American who managed to hit a light in the adjacent lane; after this even the locals ran for cover when she ran up to take a throw!


The Target


"Winning"

Dinner was uneventful, however our walk home was not. Ben and I left the restaurant early so that we could get back and pack for our bus in the morning little did we know of what was to come on the walk home. About 100m from the restaurant a couple of policemen pulled us over for a routine drug search which of course led to nothing. Feeling rather disappointed and no doubt having seen the $300,000 pesos sitting in my wallet they asked to see a copy of our national identification documents which we informed them we did not have. Immediately the officer talking to me pretended to put cuffs on me and informed us that we would be heading off to the Police Station which obviously was far from ideal. After about 5 minutes in which most of the conversation was lost in translation I decided that they most likely wanted a bribe however I was unwilling to simply offer them one and instead went with the line "Is there another option?" The officer seemed to somewhat ignore this statement and continued to tell us that we needed our passports. In the end I think that it got all too hard as we simply did not understand enough of their Spanish to even know whether they wanted a bribe or not; so seeing that the conversation was leading nowhere they eventually gave up and walked away. Whilst the experience was somewhat terrifying it all turned out OK in the end and at least gave me something to write on here, although I think that if I had the choice I would choose to skip the entire incident!



A Bird's Eye View

On Friday we woke up after around 3 hours sleep with the realisation that we were catching a 12 hour day bus to Medellin so that we could make it there for the weekend. Of all the buses I have been on in South America it was probably the worst, maybe in some part due to the hangover, but also due to the lack of leg room and air conditioning. We managed to get to our hostel in Medellin about 9pm, 2 hours later than we had hoped. Upon arrival we bumped into a couple of English guys that I had met earlier on the trip who informed us that 2 nights ago the hostel had been robbed and gunpoint and that numerous backpackers had lost money, cameras, computers and passports; it just goes to prove that whilst Colombia is much safer than it was there is still a long way to go.

Moving Forward


Over the next few days we ventured into other parts of the city on a couple of occasions to see what was on offer. Many people say that the class divide in Colombia is extremely large and from what we saw in Medellin and Bogota this definitely rings true. We considered going on the Pablo Escobar tour however many other travellers had informed us that this was overrated and we would learn more reading about it than going on the tour (I still haven't read anything  the subject but hopefully I will at some stage).


The National Park

The City
Street Art

Another Fountain

The Fat Controller


Medellin was a beautiful city however at this stage of the trip I am somewhat over sightseeing statues, at least half of which look exactly the same. I have just arrived in Cartagena (yes another city) from Taganga on the Caribbean Coast; a place which I will post about over the next few days.

Monday 3 December 2012

A Volcano, A Market and An Old Town

After all of the excitement of Banos, Tyler and I left on Thursday night and headed to Latacunga; a town located relatively close to the Volcano Cotopaxi which we were hoping to trek up the following day. Upon arrival at our hostel we managed to booked a tour to the North side. The Kiwi working at the hostel continued the South American trend of trying to convince us that we were woefully unprepared and would be unable to complete the tour. As it turns out the warnings were completely unnecessary and our canvas shoes and single pair of socks were more than adequate for the trek up the Volcano.

Getting ready to head up...
Although the walk to the Glacier was only an increase in altitude of 500m, the fact that we were already at 4500m meant that it took the best part of an hour to reach the snow line. Whilst we both wanted to trek all the way to the crater, it was a two day hike that we simply didn't have time for. On the way up there was some pretty incredible scenery, particularly of the trenches that were formed by previous lava flows. Apparently if the Volcano explodes it can reach as far as Quito that is over 100km away (it is due to erupt in the near future so I was slightly disappointed that we didn't get to see any action on the day!!


The Rocky Road Ahead

A Previous Path of Destruction

Losing My Glacier Virginity
The Summit
Overall the trip to Cotopaxi was definitely worth it and if I ever return I will try and reach the crater which is just under 6000m above sea level. The day trip finished at around 2pm so Tyler and I decided to try and make it to Otavalo that afternoon so that we could attack the markets early the next morning. After some very efficient travelling and some slight confusion as to whether we had missed the town we arrived in Otavalo at around 8pm. For dinner we snacked on some Ecuadorian street food that may have come back to bite me the following evening however we were fully primed for a day of shopping at one of South America's biggest markets.

On Saturday we woke up at 6am and headed to the animal markets which was quite an experience...


Before

And After

Looking down on the action


Being Rather 'Cuy'
After all of the excitement at the animal markets we headed back into town to the clothes markets where just about every South American style and material was available to purchase. Tyler did his fair share in supporting the local economy however I only bought one pair of socks...South American fashion isn't really my cup of tea!



Interesting choice of colours
Our 'day' at the markets lasted two and a half hours so we were on the bus to Quito just after 9am. We arrived in Quito at around midday and after checking into our hostel we headed out for a bit of sightseeing in the Old Town.

The Basilica

My Favourite Type of Sightseeing...20X Zoom




On Saturday night we headed out to La Mariscal District in Quito's New Town which was a bit of a disappointment however I decided that due to the lack of distractions in Quito I would do a 5 day (20 hour) Spanish Course in the hope that my Spanish will improve over the remainder of the trip. The lessons were $7 an hour and throughout the week we managed to cover numerous tenses that I will have to put into practice over the coming weeks...watch out ladies!!

Happy To Be Finished
I left Quito on Friday afternoon with Michael (An Irish Guy) and spent the weekend in Cali, Colombia. On Saturday we headed to a Salsa Bar which was rather depressing...I think I will have to get a few lessons in the near future. Apart from that nothing particularly interesting happened here except I managed to hear probably one of my favourite travel quotes of all time:

Michael: "Hey mate, do you know what the exchange rate to the pound is?"

Dan (Englishman in our room): "No sorry have no idea, I just take the money from the ATM. You only live once!!"

So far on my trip I have heard YOLO used on numerous occasions but I never imagined that it would be used in the context of refusing to check a foreign exchange rate. I originally thought that similar to us, Dan may have just arrived in Colombia and could therefore be excused however it turns out that he has been here for 3 months...let's just hope for everyone's sake that his life and travels take a slightly more exciting turn than defying social norms through foreign currency exchange.

Anyway tonight I'm heading off to Bogota to meet up with Doug whom I will be travelling with for the next 12 weeks...no doubt some exciting times lay ahead and hopefully he will provide plenty of material for my future posts!